Cook Islands

Update #20 - Aitutaki, Cook Islands

Sam & Sally in the Aitutaki lagoon

Greetings from the Cook Islands. We had a great passage from Bora Bora. It took us less than four days to cover the 480 miles between Bora Bora and the Island of Autitaki. This island was discovered in 1789 by Captain Bligh and the Bounty just 17 days before the infamous mutiny occurred.

Sam and the rented scooter

The Cook Islands is the first time we've been in an English speaking country since we left the United States over nine months ago. We've been here a week and both agree that this is one of the best stops yet. We arrived last Saturday (the 23rd). The island is surrounded by a coral reef and has one of the most beautiful lagoons in the world. The clouds above are often a bright blue from the reflection of the blue lagoon below. The entrance into the lagoon was the hardest one we've done. It is only 30 feet wide for its entirety and less than six feet deep in places. The current is constantly flowing out (the ocean swells crash over the barrier reef in places and the water entering exits the lagoon at the pass). Needless to say, we were a bit nervous coming in.

Sally with Becky from Tin Can

Because of the shallow entrance very few boats can make it into the lagoon. We've had a mini Zihuatanejo reunion here. Of the five boats currently here, four were part of the group that left from Zihuatanejo, Mexico (Tin Can, Seayanika, Grasal & Moana). The town has a small wharf that we are all tied up to. It is really great to be able to hop from shore to boat so easily. We've enjoyed the close company of good friends. A few days ago we had all the boats over for games, dinner and a movie. It's hard to believe that little Moana had the biggest sitting area & table of all the boats (especially because Seayanika & Tin Can are 49 and 46 feet respectively). It was a festive day.

Just outside the boat and across a rugby field is the first church built in the Cook Islands. It was built of coral and stone in 1839 by the London Missionary Society. It's hard to believe that the church was built only 50 years after Bligh discovered the island. All of the cruisers went last Sunday. It was quite a unique and moving experience. The building was beautiful and ornate. The Polynesian people sang in their native language. They have very beautiful voices and sing many harmonies and in round. The message was in English.

Touring the Aitutaki Lagoon

After the service all were invited to the side building for refreshments. We walked into a big hall with four long tables full of food. It was a regular feast. After a short prayer we were invited to "dig in". Sally and I were in the middle of the line and noticed that there were no locals in line. We found out later that the locals let the guests eat first and eat only after the guests have eaten all they can. We were overwhelmed by their generosity, as there was a lot of food so openly and kindly given by those with not many resources to give. While we were eating the locals sang. The smiles on the faces and the passion put into the music was moving. The closest I can compare it to is gospel music. The literal translation for their type of music is "thunder hymns". It was very alive and heart felt, like nothing we?ve ever seen or heard before. All of the cruisers agreed that it was a rich and unique experience that they'd like to see again.

Yesterday (Friday) is rugby match day. They had a couple of rugby games on the field right outside our boat. Much of the town (population 2,000) was out to see the game. Thankfully we had a British boat (Tin Can) to fill us in on the rules for rugby. It seems they play the sport a bit rougher here. It was entertaining.

The Aitutaki kids petting the first dog they've seen

During the match we had a large group of young kids outside our boat. Grasal is side tied to us and has a schnauzer dog, Keltie. Since there are no dogs on the island, many of the kids had never seen a dog. Keltie isn't allowed on the island (she hasn't been allowed ashore since Mexico), so we invited the kids on board to pet the dog. At one time we had ten kids aboard Moana. They were cautious and shy around the dog. Once they pet her their fears we removed and smiled ear to ear. Keltie enjoyed all the attention.

Star fruit was brought to the yachties every few days

There is a low-pressure system moving through the area bringing wind and rain with it. Our bodies aren't used to the cold temperatures. We got out our jackets and have had to wear socks to keep our feet from freezing. Sally is over with the girls putting together a big pot of chili to help combat the cold winter weather.

We'll write soon!
Sincerely,
Sam & Sally
s/v Moana

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Update #21 - Palmerston Atoll, Cook Islands

Palmerston Lagoon

Hello!  Last time we wrote we were in Aitutaki in the Cook Islands.  We ended up staying there for a total of two weeks and really enjoyed our time there.  We went on a lagoon trip along with some friends and had the opportunity to snorkel with 4-5 foot clams.  We also saw the atoll where the next episode of Shipwreck (British version of American reality TV show Survivor) is being filmed.  It just so happened that the father of the family who took us on the lagoon trip owns part of that atoll.  For lunch we enjoyed local cuisine on One-foot Island, a small atoll where we were able to get another stamp in our passports!  After lunch we decided to stay aboard and visit with the husband, wife and daughter team while the other 15 people went snorkeling.  This was one of the highlights to our day as they were very open with us and shared a lot of interesting information about their culture and traditions.  The Cook people are so lovely. 

Almost daily I went for bicycle rides with my friend from Seayanika.  She has two foldable cruising bikes which bring many smiles and chuckles from the local children as they watch us ride by on these odd looking bikes.  We met a group of three girls who described them as “cool” stating, “They’re too cool to make fun of!”  When we offered for them to take a ride on them they declined however.  These same girls led us to the best shelling on the island and then spent a bit of time hunting for shells with us and then giving us their finds.  Before they left they asked Katriana who was riding which bike.  When we returned to our bikes, soaked because of an unexpected extended squall, there were shells waiting for us on our bike seats.  What sweethearts!

As you can imagine it was a bit difficult leaving this little haven.  After doing some very minor provisioning (I say “minor” because the supply ship had been due in for weeks now and they were very low on supplies) we headed out on a Saturday morning.  We followed an hour behind the three other Zihuatanejo boats.  As we went through the shallow and narrow pass we bumped bottom one time.  Thankfully the bottom is all sand.  The bump wasn’t enough to stop us or do any damage, just enough to give the keel a nice massage!  Later that evening on the Net we heard that Seayanika had four bumps and Tin Can, a steel boat, only had one bump but it lasted for about 50 meters!!!  They just kept going forward as they plowed through the sand.  It’s amazing how our attitude has changed the more we cruise and the more hair raising situations we go through.  That’s not to say that we’ve become careless but we no longer sweat the small stuff.

Here’s a case in point of not sweating what we (and possibly you) wouldn’t necessarily refer to as “small stuff.”  While in Aitutaki our first propane tank ran out and we replaced it with the tank we had filled for an arm and a leg in Papeete, Tahiti.  We quickly discovered that the tank had in fact NOT been filled and all of the sudden we had no ability to cook or bake.  Mind you with the supply ship out and about there was none to be had in Aitutaki!  We had neighbors boil water for us that we put into a thermos to use for coffee and washing dishes.  We also did some cooking at other boats.  One of our friends had a one burner gimbaled stove which uses a small propane can commonly used for barbeques.  They let us borrow this from them and thankfully we had four cans of propane since our BBQ is out of commission.  I have one pot and one frying pan.  The pot holds up to two cups of water and the frying pan is smaller than my hand (and I have small hands!).  Needless to say it’s been quite a challenge cooking and we’re on number three of four tanks.  We’re hoping to get our propane tanks filled in Niue but if not there it will be American Samoa before I can use our stove and oven again.  This could either drive me crazy or challenge my creative side (the little bit that I have).  It’s actually been quite interesting and fun to try to improvise and figure out what in the heck I’m going to make for us to eat.  The exception being tonight when I’ve ran out of options using pasta or rice. 

Beautiful Palmerston Lagoon

Our 193 nautical mile passage to Palmerston from Aitutki took us 2 ½ days due to light winds.  We motored the last two hours when the wind completely died and we knew it would be another night at sea if we didn’t get the engine going.  We so much prefer to sail but it sure is nice to have the option of motoring.  All three boats that left Aitutaki the same day as us were in the anchorage.  One boat had planned to go straight to Niue but decided they’d rather stop off at Palmerston than motor for an additional two days. 

The delicious Parrot fish from Palmerston

As we neared the atoll a local fishing boat came out to meet us.  As the pass has a depth of less than four feet all four of us sailboats anchored just outside.  Our soon-to-be host, Edward, directed us where to drop our anchor.  He then came aboard to introduce himself.  It is apparently somewhat of a race among the locals to come out first to the “yachties” and therefore be designated as the host family.  Edward met up with each boat as it came in and therefore all nine of us had the same host family.  Each morning Edward would call us on the radio and ask us what time we wanted to come in.  Since the pass can get pretty hairy at times he provided transportation to and from the island for all of us.  We usually went in between 9 and 10 o’clock in the morning and returned back to our boats around 7 pm.  Tuesday and Wednesday Edward’s wife, Shirley, prepared a lunch at 2 pm for the nine yachties, her two sons, husband and brother-in-law.  Once again the visitors were served first and only after us did the family help themselves.  Our fist day we were introduced to parrotfish.  Not only is it a beautiful fish but it’s also a wonderfully tasty white fish.  We also enjoyed lobster as Edward and Eric, one of the cruisers, went lobster hunting the night before and caught 6 lobsters.  We also ate chicken which looked like it too had just been caught the night before or even possibly that morning.  It was quite a wonderful feast!

The guys from the boats helped out with repairs around the island, mainly working on a motorcycle, multiple computers, VCRs, and generator.  As supply ships are few and far between there we brought ashore fresh fruits and veggies from Aitutaki along with staples such as butter, soy sauce, toilet paper and canned goods. 

Sally and Katriana from Seayanika at the all-island school day

Palmerston is a very unique island.  It was made famous by Englishman William Marsters who settled there in 1863 with two Cook Islands “wives”.  He later “married” a third Cook Islands woman (cousin to the other women) and raised a large family.  Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world.  There are currently 67 of them living on the island, more than half of whom are children.  I use quotes to refer to wives and marriage because the three families still exist and there is disagreement between them as to whether the second and third women were actually his wives or just girlfriends.  You can imagine who thinks what!!!  The people were so friendly and open, sharing their background and answering many curious questions.  It was so interesting!  The three families actually have designated areas on the motu as well as the other surrounding motus.  They do however interact regularly and seem to really enjoy one another’s company, something we understand wasn’t always the case in the past.

The whole island turned out for the school day

Our first day on the island we went over to meet a woman known as Mets.  She and her husband built an area known as the yacht club.  She invited the women over to see how she makes tye-dye pareos and shell jewelry.  We brought some cloth and shells ashore.  After making one pareo (wrap-around cloth used to clothe many of the pacific islanders) she showed us all the pareos she had made and insisted we each choose one we liked.  We each found one that matched our bathing suits and mine has  Palmerston written on it.  After lunch with Edward and Shirley we met up with Mets and learned how to make shell jewelry.  I brought some shells ashore I had found in the Tuamotus.  We had so much fun.  This was repeated the next day and I had some one-on-one time with Mets while everyone else was off playing volleyball.  Mets is originally from Aitutaki and her husband, Bill, is a direct descendent to William Marsters and his original wife.  They have three children ages 9 months, 2 and 4 years old.  Bill and Mets were so generous.  They actually have two washing machines brought in from New Zealand (the first we’ve seen since Mexico!) and invited us to bring any laundry ashore to wash.  They also built new bathrooms which are very nice and include two hot showers!!!  Both the machines and showers were built specifically to accommodate the yachties coming through.  Talk about hospitality!!!  I did end up bringing a load of California King sheets and a duvet cover ashore.  Try getting those clean in a bucket!  It’s amazing the things you appreciate when you’re cruising! 

Sally, Shekinah and Anne

Met was also eager to have Sam and me over for lunch.  We told her we’d love to but were unsure if we’d be able to depending on the weather situation.  A system was coming through and the anchorage, with no protection, was itself like being in a washing machine!  We loved the people so much our stay was extended despite the unappealing boat motion. 

Our third day there a “School Day” was put together as a fundraiser.  Most of the island is planning to go to New Zealand in November to tour different colleges.  This is in an effort to encourage further education among the children.  A New Zealand woman came to the island last year and acts as the teacher and principal.  The remarkable thing is that her uncle is a Marster and her husband is from the Marster lineage as well!  Fascinating!

The Palmerston residents welcomed us into their homes like we were family

Anyhow, I baked some American chocolate chip cookies for the occasion.  Actually I made them and then baked them on a friend’s boat!  All of the food there was sold to raise money.  We also paid to participate in games which included ping-pong, darts and a card game called Euchre.  Thanks to Mom and Dad Peterson I’ve had a bit of practice with darts and thanks to my sister Janet who came to visit in June, we both knew what the heck Euchre was and some idea of how to play.  While the games were fun, the best part was getting to know the people.  The whole village was there, taking place right after school let out.  The games extended into three days because of the laid-back atmosphere.  It was so neat.  We’d walk up and immediately a bunch of kids would yell, “Hi Sam and Sally!”  We stayed the longest of our group and really got to know the people there.  We also stayed long enough to fall in love with a little girl named Julia and, given the option, probably would’ve adopted her in a heartbeat.  Sam and I were actually talking about after the fact that we’d probably adopt any of those kids but thanks to the amazing close knit families there that would never be necessary.  Julia is part of a family of six kids along with her parents, grandmother, great-grandmother and great-grandaunt.  Mind you, everyone on the atoll is related in some way!  Sam’s brother is working with orphans in Kenya and we now understand what he meant when visiting us in Zihuatanejo, Mexico said he misses his kids.  We spent our three day passage to Beveridge Reef wishing we had stayed longer and plotting how we might return for a visit someday.  We’re sincerely hoping to meet up with them in New Zealand in November.  Julia and her entire family will be there, God willing. 

Sally and the adorable Julia

Our last full day there we did have lunch with Mets and her family.  She made parrotfish and chips, lamb chops with veggies and gravy, potato salad, mashed potatoes, cabbage salad, taro root and I can’t even remember what else!  She actually made extra and set two more plates in case the new boat which arrived that morning wanted to join us.  She also made extra so we would have some to take with us for our upcoming passage.  Their generosity and thoughtfulness was overwhelming!

In summation of our trip to Palmerston what was so overwhelmingly wonderful for us was how quickly we were welcomed into their lives and homes and treated as family.  We will miss this second home dearly and they will always hold a special place in our hearts. 

All for now.

Sincerely,
Sam and Sally
s/v Moana
Written on August 18, 2005 in Beveridge Reef

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Beveridge Reef - An achorage in the middle of Nowhere

Hi Everyone!  It’s Thursday, August 18, 2005 (Happy Birthday Janet!) and we are sitting solo at anchor in the middle of the Pacific!  We are at Beveridge Reef, a reef in the middle of the Pacific, hundreds of miles from any island.  There is no land here, just a kidney-shaped barrier reef two miles wide with a pass allowing boats to enter and anchor.  It’s amazing to be anchored in the middle of nowhere in 30 feet of water!!!  We are also surrounded by beautiful turquoise water!  Similar to Fakarava in the Tuamotus, when we put food overboard we have fish swimming up to our boat to catch a nibble.  We arrived on Tuesday morning, August 16th, after a three day passage from Palmerston.  The 24 hours prior to arriving here we experienced a deadening of wind and had the choice of bobbing or motoring.  We took the second option!  The water was like glass in some areas and we saw yellow fin tuna jumping out of the water on several occasions…right next to our boat.  We didn’t bother fishing because we have a freezer full of fresh parrotfish given to us three days prior in Palmerston.  As we approached the pass to Beveridge Reef early Tuesday morning we saw more jumping tuna and large flying fish.  We then saw dolphins and then Humpback whales!  This is apparently the season when they migrate and we got quite a show.  We saw a group of them breaching in the distance.  They appeared to be dancing and playing.  Even from a distance their splashes were HUGE!  It was quite a welcome to the Reef. 

Coming through the pass we saw our friends on Tin Can and one other boat.  We visited with them for a while and then, true to form, they were off to Niue.  I say “true to form” because we have a joke with Tin Can that whenever we arrive to a new place they are just getting ready to pull up anchor!  The other boat also pulled out so Sam and I have been alone enjoying this anchorage for the past three days.  We’ve unfortunately spent all of our time on the boat as we arrived just before a system hit and we’ve been experiencing 20+ knots of wind and rain.  As I’m typing we’re listening to Don from Summer Passage, who is located in Oxnard, California, giving a report over SSB as to the current weather situation.  Depending on wind direction, strength and rain we may remain here, head on to Niue or up to American Samoa.  There is currently a tropical cyclone over Fiji with winds between 50 and 60 knots of wind.  We’re happy to be here! 

I’m sure by the time we get this sent off you’ll know which direction we went since we can’t send any emails until we reach either Niue or American Samoa. 

“Talk” with you soon!

Sincerely,
Sam and Sally
s/v Moana
Written on August 18, 2005 while in Beveridge Reef